Baxter State Park and Mt. Katahdin
Baxter State Park
Quick links
Park History | Cabins & campgrounds | My Lean-to tent site | Mt. Katahdin & Trails | Daypack essentials | My Hike | Conclusion
History
Baxter State Park is located in north Maine about five and half hours northeast of Boston and a couple of hours north of Acadia National Park.
It was formed in 1931 out of land purchased and donated by Gov Baxter. It kept expanding till 1968 thanks to more land donated by Gov Baxter.It is a backcountry state park spread over 200,000 acres/ 800 sq. Km. It is a Forever Wild state park that has no paved roads, electricity, or running water. You may get an occasional cellphone signal at the top of a clearing or hill. You are almost transported to 200 years back in time except for the cars. It is also a prime site for stargazing with no light pollution.
Cabins and campgrounds
Maine residents can visit the park for free, others have to pay $15/day or $45/year. You can book cabins, campsites, lean-tos, and bunkhouses here for an additional fee: https://reservation.baxterstatepark.org/reserve/parking
My dwelling
I was able to reserve a lean-to for 3 nights at the end of September in Abol campground. Lean-to is a wooden shed covered on 5 sides. It was better than a tent site for the cold nights with 40F/ 4C temperatures. I used a tent inside the lean-to for additional insulation and warmth.
Since this is backcountry and I have no experience with water filtration systems, I carried all the water I needed for drinking, cooking, and cleaning. About 13 gallons/ 50 litres, but used only 7 gallons. Toilets are self-composting, clean and well-maintained by the rangers.
Mt. Katahdin is the terminus of the 2,200-mile Appalachian Trail(AT) that starts from Georgia state and is the tallest mountain in Maine at 5,206 ft/ 1,600m. The end of September is usually when through AT hikers complete their 6-month-long hike.
Several trails lead to the peak and I chose the Abol trail, the shortest one which is 8.8 miles round trip. This is also one of the trails that makes the Knife Edge trail optional, which I avoided as an inexperienced and out-of-shape hiker. But the shorter trail meant the elevation gain was swift and was not an easy hike.
The AllTrails app is a good one to figure out trails, difficulty, scenic lookouts, etc., and has trail reviews by hikers. Remember there is no cell phone service, so download the maps for offline use and the same applies to Google Maps too.
The daypack and hiking clothes
My daypack was an Osprey Skarab 30l with a water reservoir and bite valve included.
I had packed the following
The first mile or so was pretty easy with gradual ascent. It was muddy and wet in parts because of flowing streams along the hike. I did it in about 45 minutes.
The next half mile the elevation gain was quicker but a bit ok because of switchbacks instead of straight up. Hiking poles helped with balance and pacing, used them for support and propelling forward.
The third mile, Abol slide is where the real challenge began. Had to stash the hiking poles and donned work gloves for rock scrambling. The toughest mile with too much elevation gain, climbing onto boulders that were near vertical at points. Took about 2.5 hrs for this stretch, Started to doubt the All Trails app showing little to no distance gained for endless minutes of effort.
After a fatigue-inducing effort, I was greeted by Tabletop, a flat surface near Thoreau Springs. It was very serene with hanging clouds and orange rocks all around. Half a mile of hiking on Tabletop and you join the Hunt tail.
The Hunt trail ascends gradually for a mile leading you to Baxter Peak, the highest point in Mt. Katahdin. Hunt Trail is also a part of the Appalachian Trail.
I reached Baxter Peak after 6.5 hours around 12:30 pm, but the clouds rolled in blocking the view from the summit. Wolfed down three PBJ sandwiches and washed them down with big gulps of water. Saw a lot of through AT hikers completing their hike and having a triumphant celebration at the peak. 20 in total in the short 30 minutes I spent up there. 2,200 miles for them and 4.4 miles for me. I felt accomplished with my tiny achievement.
The return of course took less effort, but could not pick up pace, I was wiped. The descent in the Abol slide rock scrambling section was tough, Had to take it slow to avoid ankle injuries and slipping. It took about 5 hours back to the trailhead at 5:15 pm. About 11.5 hours in total.
Seems hikers train by summiting 4000 footers in the White Mountains before attempting Mt. Katahdin. I was foolish enough to attempt this without much prep, but glad to have completed my hike.
Maine residents can visit the park for free, others have to pay $15/day or $45/year. You can book cabins, campsites, lean-tos, and bunkhouses here for an additional fee: https://reservation.baxterstatepark.org/reserve/parking
You also get to rent canoes and kayaks for $1/hr, you read that right, for use in its various lakes. Includes oars and life jackets. If you are into fishing, it is catch and release only.
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| Darcy pond |
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| Kidney pond |
My dwelling
I was able to reserve a lean-to for 3 nights at the end of September in Abol campground. Lean-to is a wooden shed covered on 5 sides. It was better than a tent site for the cold nights with 40F/ 4C temperatures. I used a tent inside the lean-to for additional insulation and warmth.
Since this is backcountry and I have no experience with water filtration systems, I carried all the water I needed for drinking, cooking, and cleaning. About 13 gallons/ 50 litres, but used only 7 gallons. Toilets are self-composting, clean and well-maintained by the rangers.
This being black bear country, had to store every food item including cooking vessels and all scented toiletries in the car all the time.
My main purpose was to photograph Moose in the wild. No luck in August on a trip with family. This trip’s prospects were not looking bright either. Thought would try hiking up Mt. Katahdin as a consolation in case of no moose, which was the case.
Camping inside the park is the best option to hike Mt. Katahdin. Reserving a parking spot instead, as a non-Maine resident is a tall order and also delays the start of your hike.
My main purpose was to photograph Moose in the wild. No luck in August on a trip with family. This trip’s prospects were not looking bright either. Thought would try hiking up Mt. Katahdin as a consolation in case of no moose, which was the case.
Camping inside the park is the best option to hike Mt. Katahdin. Reserving a parking spot instead, as a non-Maine resident is a tall order and also delays the start of your hike.
Mt. Katahdin and trails
Mt. Katahdin is the terminus of the 2,200-mile Appalachian Trail(AT) that starts from Georgia state and is the tallest mountain in Maine at 5,206 ft/ 1,600m. The end of September is usually when through AT hikers complete their 6-month-long hike.
Several trails lead to the peak and I chose the Abol trail, the shortest one which is 8.8 miles round trip. This is also one of the trails that makes the Knife Edge trail optional, which I avoided as an inexperienced and out-of-shape hiker. But the shorter trail meant the elevation gain was swift and was not an easy hike.
The AllTrails app is a good one to figure out trails, difficulty, scenic lookouts, etc., and has trail reviews by hikers. Remember there is no cell phone service, so download the maps for offline use and the same applies to Google Maps too.
The daypack and hiking clothes
My daypack was an Osprey Skarab 30l with a water reservoir and bite valve included.
I had packed the following
- Hiking poles
- Duck tape wrapped on hiking poles for equipment repair/ blister fix.
- 2.5-liter reservoir with water + Additional 1-liter bottle of water
- Set of clothes and socks in a trash bag to keep them dry
- Microfiber towel
- Mylar blanket for emergency warmth
- Llbean Down jacket & Rain jacket
- Work gloves for rock scrambling
- Headlamp and extra batteries.
- Compass, Lighter & Multitool with knife
- First aid kit with bandaids, ibuprofen and Imodium
- Sunscreen and bug spray
- Hand sanitizer
- Phone, Power bank, and charging cable
- Hat & Sunglasses
- Rain cover for backpack
- PBJ sandwiches x 4, Clif bars x 4
Also had hiking boots with good ankle support
The Hike-Abol trail
The Hike-Abol trail
I had spoken to some groups coming back from hiking the Abol trail. A couple in their late twenties who appeared fit but turned back at the 3-mile mark. A family with kids 10, 8 & 6 had completed it. Everyone said that the hike was very difficult.
So I decided to start really early on Monday with a headlamp, an hour before sunrise. Starting early when it is dark with improving daylight is always better than finishing late with diminishing daylight.
At 5:40 a.m. after signing the register at the ranger station, the hike began. You need to sign in so the ranger's office knows where you are and in case you need to be rescued.
So I decided to start really early on Monday with a headlamp, an hour before sunrise. Starting early when it is dark with improving daylight is always better than finishing late with diminishing daylight.
At 5:40 a.m. after signing the register at the ranger station, the hike began. You need to sign in so the ranger's office knows where you are and in case you need to be rescued.
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| Took this one at the end of my hike |
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| Hiking with headlamp |
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| Stream on the way |
The next half mile the elevation gain was quicker but a bit ok because of switchbacks instead of straight up. Hiking poles helped with balance and pacing, used them for support and propelling forward.
 |
| Gradual elevation gain |
The third mile, Abol slide is where the real challenge began. Had to stash the hiking poles and donned work gloves for rock scrambling. The toughest mile with too much elevation gain, climbing onto boulders that were near vertical at points. Took about 2.5 hrs for this stretch, Started to doubt the All Trails app showing little to no distance gained for endless minutes of effort.
Considered quitting and heading back several times. Steeling oneself mentally was not enough, my cardio fitness became a liability here, and strength training alone did not help. I soldiered on after several breaks and a Clif bar.
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| Looking down |
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| View after the rock scramble |
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| Tabletop |
The Hunt trail ascends gradually for a mile leading you to Baxter Peak, the highest point in Mt. Katahdin. Hunt Trail is also a part of the Appalachian Trail.
I reached Baxter Peak after 6.5 hours around 12:30 pm, but the clouds rolled in blocking the view from the summit. Wolfed down three PBJ sandwiches and washed them down with big gulps of water. Saw a lot of through AT hikers completing their hike and having a triumphant celebration at the peak. 20 in total in the short 30 minutes I spent up there. 2,200 miles for them and 4.4 miles for me. I felt accomplished with my tiny achievement.
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| At the summit |
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| PBM never tasted this good. Marmalade instead of jelly |
The return of course took less effort, but could not pick up pace, I was wiped. The descent in the Abol slide rock scrambling section was tough, Had to take it slow to avoid ankle injuries and slipping. It took about 5 hours back to the trailhead at 5:15 pm. About 11.5 hours in total.
Conclusion
"You never conquer a mountain. The mountain stands tall undefeated after you leave. A mountain just accepts and allows you to summit its peak or not." - Anand Kavalapara
I am grateful to Mt. Katahdin for accepting and allowing me to summit the peak.
"Getting to the top is optional. Getting down is mandatory.”
― Ed Viesturs, No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World's 14 Highest Peaks
I had planned on sharing this even if I had failed to reach the summit. Failing to summit is always an option, you live to do it again another day.
I slept for 10 hours that night after a couple of celebratory beers. The next day I did nothing other than cooking, reading a book, and soaking my tired feet in the ice-cold Abol stream.
I am grateful to Mt. Katahdin for accepting and allowing me to summit the peak.
"Getting to the top is optional. Getting down is mandatory.”
― Ed Viesturs, No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World's 14 Highest Peaks
I had planned on sharing this even if I had failed to reach the summit. Failing to summit is always an option, you live to do it again another day.
I slept for 10 hours that night after a couple of celebratory beers. The next day I did nothing other than cooking, reading a book, and soaking my tired feet in the ice-cold Abol stream.
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| Abol stream |
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| Camp lunch the next day |
Seems hikers train by summiting 4000 footers in the White Mountains before attempting Mt. Katahdin. I was foolish enough to attempt this without much prep, but glad to have completed my hike.
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This is awesome, the hike and the blog. Look forward to more.
ReplyDeleteThanks Rajiv
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